At the entrance of Yushan National Park in Taiwan, a saxophonist played on the roadside, his music blending with the rustle of leaves and cicadas. The scene captured the island’s close connection to nature. Hiking the historic Walami Trail, the writer and companion encountered few visitors, instead admiring mountain views, waterfalls, and wildlife before crossing a suspension bridge that felt far removed from city life.
Despite its remoteness, the park lies only a short cab ride from Hualien, a city of 100,000. Before arriving, the travelers knew little about Taiwan beyond its famous bubble tea, night markets, and Taipei 101. Conversations with locals revealed the country’s expansive forests and mountains that remain largely unknown to Western tourists.
More than two-thirds of Taiwan is mountainous, yet many people abroad still view it as an industrial nation. Outdoor pursuits such as hiking, cycling, and diving are easily accessible from the East Coast. The travelers began in Taitung, soaking in hot springs, biking through neon-green rice fields in Chishang, and driving past cliffs in Taroko National Park before ending in Taipei. Experts say visitors often arrive with few expectations but leave surprised by Taiwan’s natural beauty.
Tourism has rebounded since the pandemic, though not to pre-2019 levels. Strained ties with China, which once sent the most tourists, have slowed recovery. Earthquakes and typhoons also pose challenges. The April 2024 quake damaged Taroko National Park, closing trails and deterring visitors. Even the Silks Place Taroko hotel, once thriving, now struggles with low occupancy despite its scenic marble cliffs and rooftop pool.
Traveling the East Coast by train and taxi, the pair discovered peaceful countryside views and coastal paths that led to quiet beaches, such as Qixingtan. Cafes served dishes blending global and local flavors, from goat milk lattes to German pork knuckle. A short train ride brought them back to Taipei’s vibrant streets, elegant hotels, and inventive cocktail bars. The city’s ease of transport contrasted sharply with the solitude of the coast.
Tour guides say this mix of wilderness and urban life defines Taiwan, though its marketing often focuses narrowly on food. In Taipei, the travelers explored temples and markets before a rainstorm ended plans to hike Yangmingshan. At a breakfast shop, they finished their journey with hot soy milk and dumplings, savoring a final taste of Taiwan’s character and warmth.
Despite its remoteness, the park lies only a short cab ride from Hualien, a city of 100,000. Before arriving, the travelers knew little about Taiwan beyond its famous bubble tea, night markets, and Taipei 101. Conversations with locals revealed the country’s expansive forests and mountains that remain largely unknown to Western tourists.
More than two-thirds of Taiwan is mountainous, yet many people abroad still view it as an industrial nation. Outdoor pursuits such as hiking, cycling, and diving are easily accessible from the East Coast. The travelers began in Taitung, soaking in hot springs, biking through neon-green rice fields in Chishang, and driving past cliffs in Taroko National Park before ending in Taipei. Experts say visitors often arrive with few expectations but leave surprised by Taiwan’s natural beauty.
Tourism has rebounded since the pandemic, though not to pre-2019 levels. Strained ties with China, which once sent the most tourists, have slowed recovery. Earthquakes and typhoons also pose challenges. The April 2024 quake damaged Taroko National Park, closing trails and deterring visitors. Even the Silks Place Taroko hotel, once thriving, now struggles with low occupancy despite its scenic marble cliffs and rooftop pool.
Traveling the East Coast by train and taxi, the pair discovered peaceful countryside views and coastal paths that led to quiet beaches, such as Qixingtan. Cafes served dishes blending global and local flavors, from goat milk lattes to German pork knuckle. A short train ride brought them back to Taipei’s vibrant streets, elegant hotels, and inventive cocktail bars. The city’s ease of transport contrasted sharply with the solitude of the coast.
Tour guides say this mix of wilderness and urban life defines Taiwan, though its marketing often focuses narrowly on food. In Taipei, the travelers explored temples and markets before a rainstorm ended plans to hike Yangmingshan. At a breakfast shop, they finished their journey with hot soy milk and dumplings, savoring a final taste of Taiwan’s character and warmth.